If you are wondering what is New Orleans, one answer is as good as another. New Orleans is a many-splendored, organic thing, a city with more than one face.
This much is true: On saturdays, New Orleans is a cold cut sandwich. Yes, it's a cold cut sandwich fully dressed on a half loaf of french bread. You can have one freshly made in the back of any corner grocer.
On the corner of Paris Avenue and Gentilly Road, there is a sign over the gas pumps that says, "JIMMY SAYS WE MAKE THE TASTIEST SANDWICHES IN TOWN!" That sign doesn't lie. Neither does Jimmy.
You can have an oyster, havarti and bacon loaf at Ye Olde College Inn, or you can have a barbecue shrimp po' boy at Liuzza's-by-the-Track. You can have a Ray-Ray at Sammy's on Elysian Fields Avenue, or you can have The Peacemaker at Mahoney's on Magazine Street. A peacemaker is a fat loaf of french bread stuffed with fried oysters, fried bacon and melted cheese.
You will always find something to eat in New Orleans, at Tujaque's, the Court of the Two Sisters, the Camellia Grill, the Ruby Slipper, K-Paul's, Emeril's, Theo's, Juan's Flying Burrito, or at Mona's. You will never have a bad meal in New Orleans. Especially not at breakfast.
When it is a cold cut sandwich that was made with love of tradition and craft, like a muffuletta from Central Grocery, you know you are in New Orleans on a Saturday.
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| The view from stage right |
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| The view from stage left |
A votre sante.
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